August11
August 8
The Park City Arts Fair ended last night and I got my booth torn down in time for a late dinner and a moment’s reflection. As bad as the economy is at the moment, I still made a small profit at the art show. The last thing on anyone’s mind is making a major art purchase when they have just given blood to the stock market. That said, I am off to the next show in Sun Valley and am camping tonight in the Sawtooth Wilderness Refuge. Fly fishing begins in earnest tomorrow morning.

As I write, the sound of cascading water soothes my head after a day on the highway. Tall pines shade me from a setting sun as the light fades behind the mountaintops. It was a leisurely six-hour journey through northern Utah and south central Idaho. That is not much of a drive for a road warrior, but I needed a day off after laboring all weekend at the art show. It felt really good to get behind the wheel and drive for a change of pace.
Tomorrow, I will cross over the mountain pass and swing down into Stanley, Idaho, where I will begin fly fishing the Salmon River. It just does not get any better in my book. Without television I am not keeping score on a blow-by-blow basis as the market ventures off a cliff. Jim Cramer will have to do without me in his audience tonight. I did stick my head inside a restaurant today as I got fuel at a roadside truck stop. The tube was on and the market was in a tailspin, already down 553 points at the moment. The chicken -littles of the world were all scurrying to the side lines, as all indications pointed to the fact that the sky must be falling. If I wanted to write about the ineptness of leadership in Congress and their failure to inspire confidence in a sliding economy, I could easily write a book. But I will decline to give my thoughts on government, instead opting to focus on things I can control, and relaxing for moment stream-side. Forget that I, like most any other aging middle class American has ties in some way to the stock market. So what if I must put off retirement for a few more years. It is only money, and the old adage says that money cannot buy happiness; fly fishing can. Tomorrow morning I will be on one of the finest fly fishing rivers in the lower 48.
If you have not figured this all out by now, I will sketch in a few details. I make my living as a working artist. This requires (by choice) that I travel the country and do some of the better outdoor art festivals in the Rocky Mountain states, along with a scattered few art fairs in the upper Pacific Northwest. That is where the fishing is. I could just as easily have chosen to do my shows throughout the Midwest and in bigger metropolitan areas east of the Mississippi. (Not a whole lot of good dry fly fishing along the banks of the mighty Miss.) I paint winters and fill my summers with traveling to art fairs and fishing in between. That might not sound like heaven to everyone, but it sure as hell works for me. Put me streamside any day and I am happy as a pig on a mudslide. We all have our vices, and fly fishing is mine. The fact is, that I am not even that good at it, but it is not about catching fish, as much as it is about simply being there. (I do catch my fair share, and I always release what I catch. I will leave the fish to be caught again another day.)
This is a bit off of the subject. It drives my 81-year-old mother crazy that I do not keep my catch. She is of the old school where the hunter brings home the meat. Forget the fact that she personally hates the taste of fish. My mother sees little good in fishing if
there is not a fish fry at the end of the day. My wife, Sheryl, and I love cooking and eating fish, but we buy our seafood at the local fish market. Today’s trout streams are generally over fished and there would not be a single wild trout left if everyone kept their fish. I like the idea of catch and release. In a way, I feel that I am doing my share to provide the same opportunities for my future grandchildren. Again allow me to underscore the fact that it is more about standing in the middle of an ice melted stream and casting a feather-weight fly against all odds than it is about filling my freezer with meat. I think that you get the idea. Tomorrow I will test my skills with a nine foot 5 Weight rod and a selection of dry flies. (I like dry flies and dry martinis. The drier the better.) Leave the nymph fishing for the other guys.
August 9
Today I took a lazy drive north to Stanley, Idaho. I could have missed it had I blinked at the wrong time. Stanley is but a wide spot in the road and the home for 100 dyed in the wool hardcore mountain folks. It is the jumping off place for the National Sawtooth Wilderness area, were the Salmon River begins its long journey through the Sawtooth Mountain range. The scenery is simply incredible, and so is the fly fishing.
A drive north of Ketchum provides a scenic view of the forested mountainsides as you gain altitude. Dropping over the pass, I found this wonderful view of the Sawtooth Mountains in the valley of the opposite side near the town of Stanley.
August 10

I got a late start this morning, sleeping well after sunrise, following my first day at fishing. I guess that yesterday’s hiking and fishing in the Salmon River took it out of me. I drove back into Stanley to get my wakeup shot of coffee after spending the night in one of the upper campgrounds fifteen miles north of town. I am taken back by the vastness of the valley surrounded by the Sawtooth Mountains. Surprisingly there are far fewer tourists than I anticipated. Perhaps they stop over in Sun Valley and never make it this far back into the wilderness. That is a shame really, because the Big Woods River of Ketchum /Sun Valley pales in comparison to the mighty Salmon River that runs through the Sawtooth wilderness area. Normally places like this are covered with people crawling across its surfaces like ants on sugar. Many of the campsites have ample room available. If this were Yellowstone, I would have needed reservations to pitch a tent.
Today provided fly fishing worthy of remembering. I nailed a large number of very nice rainbow trout, all returned to the water to fight another day. My wrist ached by the end of the day; my shoulder tired, and my feet were dragging. I felt like I had spent a day at the salt mines, but I would give a pretty penny to have another day just like it. (As I write this, a small weassle-like rodent is skillfully hopping from rock to rock. He is standing up on his back legs as if trying to peer into the van where I am seated and writing on my laptop computer.)
The last two days I have taken a break from fishing to drive up to an old mining ghost town where I can get lunch. Seven dollars buys you a quarter pound hamburger with secret sauce, onion, tomato, and shredded lettuce on a sesame seed bun. It is not fancy, but it works and tastes pretty darn good. I chased it with an Indian Pale Ale from my ice box. While my burger was being cooked, I talked to an older gentleman and his wife who stumbled in for a similar meal. He looked to be well into his eighties, trim as, and stout as, an oak fence post, but small of stature. His eyes twinkled with an understanding of been there done that. We traded small talk and chatted briefly about our travels. I was quite taken with his wife, although we did not speak. I only listened. Well beyond eighty, she seemed as spry as a twenty year old. Here diminutive frame was stylishly clothed, wearing a pair of Mary Janes on her feet. The couple was up for a jaunt in the mountains, driving a motor home and camping along the way. The gentleman wanted to know about my sprinter van. He very much liked the way my Sprinter is tall and narrow, unlike the wider and awkward mobile motor home that he was driving. His comment was that he had first come across a Sprinter when traveling in Baja.
Tomorrow, I will wet a line on the Woods River and fish for half a day before setting up for my next art show in Sun Valley.
August 11

One artist’s view of the Wood River are the many stones that line it’s banks.
I fished the Wood this morning without much success. A huge caddis hatch was coming off as I stepped into the riverwith Caddis flies hanging to my clothing. I did not see one trout rise as caddis floated on the water heading downstream. I tried a variety of flies, both wet and dry, without success. After a couple of hours with water beating at my knees, I decided to give it a rest and go into town. I checked into the rental that I am sharing with good friends for the next week. It was a relief to take a hot shower after three nights camping at high altitude in primitive campgrounds. By mid afternoon I began my show set up at my assigned time. Set up went as could be expected, but after three hours of intense labor, I was ready to call it a day. My show is ready for tomorrow’s opening, and I feel like I have just gone ten rounds in a boxing ring. Everything hurts. My knees, my elbow, fingers, and a sore right shoulder all feel the pains of old age. This business isn’t for pansies. The heavy lifting, long hours, and extended play all add up. I am waiting for good friends, Dennis and Caroline to show up so we can burn a steak. (My inside joke, because I would rather serve time in prison than burn choice grade beef.) Pink to bloody red is how I like them. I hope Dennis gets here soon, because the food and wine is packed in his van. He and Caroline drove into Sun Valley from Eugene, Oregon, and I know that they both feel about as tired as I am after a full day of driving capped by setting up for a show. It is time to let our hair down and settle in for the evening. Tomorrow will be a long day.
August 12, 13, 14…… the show begins. The Sun Valley Art and Crafts Fair.
It is time for the Sun Valley Art and Craft Fair and it will not disappoint. As anticipated, the overall quality is unmistakably high for a venue this size. Artists from all over have gathered to present their wares at this mountain fair. Despite an unsettled economy, sales prove to be strong. This is a neighborly event where artists and patrons alike, simply enjoy being there. The atmosphere is laid back in a postcard setting made for a good time. I enjoyed seeing old and new friends alike, and on Saturday night a few of us got together and fired up the charcoal grill for a backyard barbeque.
Dennis is up at first light crunching on a bowl full of granola.
August 15 Today I take Dennis with me up the valley for a little fly fishing.
We have both been looking forward to this all year. It is one of the few perks working artists get from their travels aside from following an artistic passions that we love. Hiking, fishing, biking, or simply searching out hot springs along the way often comes with the job when doing art fairs in the mountain states. We have worked hard at the art show, and it is now time to reward our efforts with a little R & R. We did the same thing last year after the show, and the fish are waiting. After stocking up on specific flies for the region at Silver Creek Outfitters, we will be on our way.
I took this picture of Dennis fishing a pool near Sunbeam.
It does not get much better than this. Our day began before sunrise with a cup of coffee and a full plate of anticipation. Once our gear was loaded into the van, we headed north out of Ketchum, traveling highway 75 into the Sawtooth Wilderness area. A full moon still hung motionless in the sky above the mountains as the sun slowly rose into the heavens. The trip from Ketchum into Stanley is a beautiful drive paralleling the Wood River as we ascend up the mountain passing camp grounds and breathtaking vistas along the way. Reaching the Galena Summit at 8700 feet, we began our descent into the opposite valley, marking the separation between the Wood River and the beginning of the Salmon River. Today we will fish the Salmon, a wide, free stone river that has humble beginnings before picking up water from numerous creeks as it snakes through the valley. The first bridge crossing marks the Salmon as a narrow thread of water no wider than a footstep. Before we reach Stanley the river beckons us to stop and fish, but our destination is further down river, miles out of town.
The Salmon is also known as The River Of No Return. It flows for 425 miles through central Idaho from near the summit of Galena to its confluence with the Snake River. Fishing on a Monday, I am amazed by our solitude and the lack of vacationers along the way. No other fishermen were to be found until later in the day. Even then we saw little evidence of fly fishermen other than ourselves. The 75 Scenic Byway simply takes you away into a wilderness where few travel other than to experience the beauty of central Idaho and the river along its path. The further we drove north of Stanley, the fewer travelers we saw. Highway 75 snakes its way alongside the river leaving only the occasional pullout to get off of the road and experience the river.
August 17
Today, we fished Silver Creek, a cold spring fed stream surrounded by low lying willows and vegetation. It meanders across a flat plain snaking its way between biscuit colored hillsides. Much of the creek has been set aside through corporate and public donations as a nature preserve.
I believe that our fishing was an effort in futility as few fish even rose to look at our flies and the hatch was not nearly as heavy as usual. A trico fly hatch generally appears by 8:30 in the morning in clouds that rise and roll down the water in waves. These hatches can be seen a half mile off the water as the sunlight catches the wings of the many insects balled into a cloud.
Forget not catching fish. That is why they call it fishing and not catching. It was a bluebird day without a cloud in the sky. The water of Silver Creek runs still and flat without a ripple or a whirl. Any clouds in the sky would have helped camouflage the faintest of leaders (12 foot 7x) and the somewhat obvious fly line crawling down the water. Fishing Silver Creek requires casting long distances to perfection while using a fly smaller than a knat’s ass. All odds are stacked against the fisherman from the get go. I have long said that it is more about the experience of being there surrounded up to your thighs by cold running water than it is about catching fish. A great horned owl flushed out of a mound of trees along the river bank scaring up a pair of mallards as birds of all types and colors danced above our heads plucking insects from the air. At one point two very large bucks with ample racks slowly crossed the stream twenty yards in front of me without a care in the world.
We finished our day with a soak in a local hot spring north of Ketchum where Dennis and I chatted about past adventures and big things to come. That night we fixed another wonderful dinner. Tomorrow I travel for home, my wife and two yellow labs are calling me.
A note about conservancy
I am a catch and release fisherman, but I leave that choice to the individual. Where the law requires, every fisherman should release their catch no questions asked. It is only with our help that future generations will enjoy the same pleasures that we do. As for trash, if you haul it in; haul it out. That means you, mister smoker. Learn to field strip your cigarettes if you do not already. Dropping cigarette butts stream side simply ruins it for others and adds to the cumulative amounts of trash that constantly gather no matter how much some of us try to keep it clean. Central Idaho is a beautiful place and deserves only the finest conservation efforts.
A note about stream side etiquette.
The waters throughout our national parks are used by boaters and fisherman alike. Cyclists travel alongside streams stopping to enjoy the vistas and have a splash of cold water. As a fly fisherman I appreciate a moment of solitude and the silence of nature the same way a golfer enjoys getting away from the office and onto the links. Fly fishing is about silence and connecting with nature. No one would think about yelling and screaming as a golfer concentrates on making a difficult putt. When river rafters pass they need to respect that silence and share the water with the fishermen. While fishing north of Stanley on the Salmon River a bevy of boaters came our way, choosing to have a water fight with their paddles in the pool in front of us as we stood there in amazement at their poor choice of manners. (These were adults.) We had hiked into that spot to fish the pool surrounding us. We made way for the boaters, holding our casts as they passed, and then they made so much noise and splashing that our fishing went totally cold. What turnip truck did these boaters fall off of?
At another bend in the river we found ourselves fishing only to have people come up on the other side of the river on mountain bikes followed by their dog. They began throwing large sticks our way and the dog chased the sticks into the water attempting a retrieve. They seemed somewhat oblivious to the fact that we were there on that bend in the river before they ever arrived. I am sometimes amazed at human behavior. We ran into so few people on the hundreds of miles of the Salmon River in the Sawtooth National Recreational Area, yet these people chose that particular piece of river bank to chase us away with their outrageous behavior. I will never understand.
Homeward bound.
5300 MILES LATER. Home at last and waiting for my lovely wife to return to the house from a day’s work. I have already been mauled by my two dogs. Life is good.