STEELHEAD, THE ULTIMATE TEST FOR FRESHWATER FLY FISHING TACKLE!
I know of no other freshwater fish that will stretch a fly line to the breaking point like a Steelhead, fresh from the ocean. This is a story of a sea-going monster that lived up to that reputation and more.
For the record, I simply love fly fishing. Like many of us, I learn something new every time I go out, and I make no claims about being any better at it than I am. In a way fly fishing is that rare opportunity to better connect with the raw outdoors. It is as much about being there, as it is about catching fish. For a rookie Steelheader from far away Kansas, fishing on the Deschutes this time of year was like having my cake and eating it too.
I arrived in Maupin, Oregon the last day in August ready to put my new spey rod and matching large arbor reel to the test on the Lower Deschutes. It had already been a long summer spent fishing for Rainbows, Cuts, and Browns throughout the western mountainous states. I could not wait to begin stringing up some heavier tackle to go after the chrome beasts of fall. The summer Steelhead were beginning to leave their resting places at the mouth of the Columbia, once again turning left into the waters of the Lower Deschutes as temperatures cooled and the days of summer evaporated into fall. Although not in the record numbers of the previous summer, above average counts of Steelhead had already been recorded entering the Columbia River system. The fishing had not turned on yet, and the area fly shops were not making any promises. Steelhead fishing had been a little skinny at best with the water in the Columbia just a tad on the warm side of summer. Never the less, I was in Maupin, miles away from the flat lands of Kansas, and a wee bit anxious to fish. There was a Steelhead out there somewhere with my name on it.
I checked into a small room at the Imperial River Company; no television, no telephone, just the raw necessities for a warm night’s sleep before hitting the water and a long day of serious Steelheading. I looked around the room and found an alarm clock that would insure that I awakened in time for a 4:30 appointment with my fishing guide, Evan Unti, of Deschutes Angler. After doing a quick inventory of the gear I would need the next morning, I settled into bed. I needed to be “wadered up” and waiting when Evan arrived an hour and a half before sunrise.
Anticipation filled the room. I tossed and turned much of the night and my alarm clock never had a chance to go off. After a quick shower to get the blood running, I dressed in my waders and stepped out to an unusually cool August morning. A sharp chill bit at the air as the faint perfume of high desert junipers floated on the breeze. At half past the hour, Evan drove up like clockwork pulling a Clackacraft behind a silver SUV already loaded for bear. Without any further pomp and circumstance I loaded in my own gear and we were off on our trip down river to launch at Pine Tree landing. Thirty minutes out of Maupin, we were floating gently on the water under the faint light of a quarter moon and a thousand pin-pointed stars guiding us on our way.
Evan, dressed for a cold day in August, in a brown down hooded jacket. Who would have thunk it?
A good fishing guide will make you comfortable from the get-go. A warm cup of coffee and general conversation told me most of what I really wanted to know about Evan. If we were not already best buddies, we might feel like it by the end of the day. Fishing brings out the best in all of us, and a good guide is there make your trip a memorable one. I will take that one step further. A good guide is also a good teacher. These guys are on, and around the water, most of the year, and they have already forgotten more than most of us will ever learn about the art of casting a fly or landing a big fish in a lifetime of fishing adventures. I try to never let pride get in the way of improving my skills or taking full advantage of being around a professional guide. Hell, I can’t afford to; and I was not about to miss getting the best for my nickel. Before casting the first serious fly, Evan found a shallow run where we rehearsed and polished my spey casting skills I had learned the previous year. After a quick refresher course, we were off to stalk Steelhead.
The hillsides are almost devoid of any hint of foliage. The river runs through deep seated canyon walls and alongside rounded hills.
The Deschutes is one of the finest trout streams in the lower forty-eight. Football-shaped redside Rainbows fill the banks, but we were hunting bigger game. Beginning in August, the summer Steelhead run becomes the major focus of anglers as these sea-going cousins to the Rainbow begin migrating upstream from the Pacific Ocean to spawn in the river’s upper reaches. It remains a mystery where these fish actually go in the ocean after being born in fresh water. It is just as much an enigma why it is that they return to the exact same stream to spawn as mature adults. These are sea-run Rainbows, bright chrome in color, and every bit as strong and mean as the reputation that precedes them.
My first fly fishing experience with Steelhead had come on the Deschutes one year earlier. That gave me the bug and I was just itching to get my own gear. I found a matched setup that had been used as a demonstrating model at a fly shop in Michigan. I am a big fan of both Able reels and Sage rods and already had a stash of both in my fishing closet. When this setup became available, I could not resist. The rod was the length that I was looking for and the reel was the proper size and weight for the rod.
My Sage TCX Spey setup with Abel Reel.
My setup included a 12.5 foot Sage TCX seven weight spey rod and an Able Super 11 large arbor reel loaded with 200 yards of 30 pound test backing, a Rio shooting line with an Airflo floating skagit head. This combination measures 100 feet of shooting line plus a 35 foot head. A fifteen foot 10 pound test leader was added to the head. Most of our fishing on the Deschutes was done using the fifty foot combined length of the skagit head and leader to swing the fly. My guide, Evan Unti, felt like my rod might be a little heavy for the Deschutes since most fish average five to eight pounds. All of this is personal taste, and Evan prefers a six weight of similar length to my own. In fact, he commented before the day began that my so-called Sage seven weight would be a Chinook Machine on the same river. Spey rods come in all weights and sizes and fourteen foot sticks are not unheard of even on a medium sized stream like the Deschutes. Each to his own. Find what works and feels comfortable, because you will be swinging it all day long. Fishing for Steelhead is stalking “the fish of a thousand casts.”
My Abel Super 11 in Steelhead finish.
By the time that we reached the first run, a hint of daylight was on the horizon and a spit of rain was in the wind. Gray clouds began moving over the mountains to the east, blocking what little sun might later hit the water as night morphed into day. It was perfect weather for hunting Steelhead. Normally, Steelhead shy away from bright sunny days. The best fishing is generally early morning and late evening shadow. We had gotten lucky. Without direct sun on the water our chances were greatly improved for a good day’s fishing.
There is considerable beauty to be found even on the grayest of days. The rocks and hillsides are almost nude of anything green. In fact, I felt like I was almost as likely to see a bighorn sheep as I was likely to see trees in any numbers on the hillsides.
The Deschutes contains a variety of types of water from fast moving whitewater rapids to long evenly rolling runs of oxygenated water where the Steelhead rest before journeying further upstream. The natural typography of rounded desert mountain hills and canyons cut from volcanic basalt, are typical of the high desert found in central Oregon. Trees are sparse with only the rare juniper tree spotting the landscape high upon the hillside. Most of the foliage is found close to water’s edge. The nice thing about using a spey rod, is that all of your casting is on the water in front of you. You can actually go all day long without losing a single fly.
Wildlife abounds on the Deschutes. We saw kingfishers, ospreys, and eagles along our way. Bighorn sheep grazed in good numbers on the hillside above us as we ate lunch.
The best Steelhead runs have many rocks of varying sizes strung along the bottom of a stream bed topped by several feet of evenly flowing water. Occasionally, there are flat ledges formed by ancient lava flows that step down into the deeper holes below the water’s surface. Although most runs are safe for the experienced angler, it pays to watch where one steps when fishing the Deschutes. A wading staff may come in handy and don’t be surprised if you find yourself straddling a rather large boulder as you do the Steelhead two-step down river. The Steelhead rest in front of submerged rocks and boulders throughout the runs. The idea is to cast a fly approximately forty-five degrees downstream using fifty feet of line, allowing it to swing in an even arc until it is directly below where you are standing. After each cast, the fisherman takes two steps downstream and repeats the process while attempting to cover all of the ground in the run. I call this the Steelhead two-step. When executed correctly, you present your fly to any resting fish within reach while encouraging the fish to boil on your fly.
There are differences in opinion about why the fish eat the fly. Some say that the fish do not feed during their journey upstream and they bite at the fly as it simply irritates them by entering their space. Others claim that it is instinctive behavior, learned at an earlier age when insects in the river made up much of their diet. Whatever the reason, the take on the fly will never fail to excite. These fish grab the fly and take off downstream as if powered by rocket fuel. This is usually followed by an explosion at the surface and the bright shine of chrome against the landscape, followed by tail walking that even the best dance choreographer would envy. Hold on for dear life and let the fish run. Hold your rod high and angle it into the bank away from the faster current. With luck, the fish will tire before you do, and your backing knot will hold. That is Steelheading.
Steelhead flies do not imitate anything in real life. They seem to appeal mostly to the fishermen who fish them. This fly is named a “Streetwalker” for obvious reasons. The best fly is the fly that you have tied on. Whatever the fly, the fisherman must have confidence in his or her chosen fly and fish each cast as if it is going to catch fish.
Steelhead can drive you mad. I am told that it is easy to go all day without catching a single fish. I had kept my expectations low, but that did not dampen my intentions. I was on the Deschutes to catch Steelhead and the stars were beginning to align in such a way for that perfect day. Evan had tied on a purple fly with a hint on shining tinsel to catch any early morning light. It is called a Streetwalker, and the name properly describes this gaudily colored fly. We were about three-quarters through the initial run when the first fish hit. I kept my rod low and resisted the temptation to lift the rod and set the hook. Line screamed out of my rod tip as the shooting line disappeared rapidly downstream. As the fish exploded on the surface, I raised my rod and knew that the hook was set. Before I could react, the Steelhead had changed directions and was coming straight at me. I desperately cranked the large arbor in an attempt to gather line and remove any slack. I was cranking with my left hand and holding the rod high with my right. Evan reminded me to keep the rod angled into the shore and apply pressure to the fish. Larger reels often come with a right hand retrieve, but I had changed my Abel for use with the left hand. Call it personal preference. Whichever side of the reel you retrieve on, it will take all that you can muster to land a Steelhead with the taste of metal in his mouth. We would not land them all that day. After a ten minute battle, a nice Steelhead was brought to hand without using a net. Evan took a quick picture. We admired the fish and revived him in the current before sending him back on his way. Chalk one up to success. We would not be skunked.
The first fish of the day, caught on a purple Streetwalker.
I was dressed in Simms chest waders with long quick drying pants underneath. If I had known that the cool weather was moving in, I would have worn fleece under my waders. My Simms boiled wool sweater came in very handy. I never go anywhere without it. My face was windburned and my hair frazzled. Despite the cold, the wind, and a spit of rain, I was not uncomfortable. The fishing was too intense to take notice.
We fished a few other runs before all hell broke loose. Evan had tied on a new fly. It is often said that the best fly is the one that you are fishing with. My new fly was called an Undertaker, a Steelhead pattern that has been around for the last century. Whatever fly you choose, have total confidence in it. Your whole world can change at any moment when you are fishing for Steelhead. There is no telling when a Steelhead will grab your fly and take off for the next county.
The Undertaker is an old time favorite and tops my recently formed personal list of favorite steelhead flies.
We were fishing a very long run of even water filled with a scattering of large rocks and boulders that had tumbled down from the neighboring hillside. Evan had told me to actually step three steps after every cast instead of the usual two. I remember him telling me if I did not keep on the move, we would be there all day. The run was just that long. It would have been easy to let my guard down, but I paid attention and stayed intense on what it was that I was doing. Three-quarters down the length of the run, my reel screamed as line smoked out the end of the rod. My rod was down parallel to the water and I allowed the fish to run a moment before setting steel to the roof of his mouth. He rocketed out of the water like a house on fire, burning line while racing down stream at a record pace. When he first showed his head, he was already over a hundred feet out and still stripping line. Evan screamed, “Damn, that’s a big fish.” I adjusted my drag and kept up the pressure, but let him run. My running line had long since disappeared, and I was well into my bright orange backing line. The fish was perhaps a hundred-eighty feet downstream and still smoking. This was one strong fish and he was really pissed. He did not like the bite of steel in his mouth. I began reeling in line only to have it stripped out again. I was beginning to wonder if I would actually be able to land this monster without breaking a leader or losing a knot. At least my backing knot was good for the moment. Evan told me to reel, but every time that I began to gain ground, the fish simply turned south and went on another run. That is when Evan declared that, “this may just take a while.” The fish was way in the distance jumping and twisting like he had just swallowed acid, and wanted to get it out of his mouth. I began to feel that if the fish ever did come close enough to actually see me holding the rod it would be because fate, should I land the fish. Evan gave me encouragement by telling me that I was doing everything right and simply not to get in a hurry. I had already determined that I would let the battle play out without rushing into things. Able reels brag about their drag systems. We were putting it to the test. Looking back, I can truthfully say that I began to wonder if we could actually land the fish. There are guys out there that handle these monsters everyday, but I was not one of them. This was the biggest Steelhead that I had yet to experience, and he was giving me a real run for my money. Steelhead trips are not in expensive, but I had already gotten more than my nickel’s worth on this trip.
After much give and take, the big beast came close enough to see us before taking off again. Evan said, “look at the size of that tail,” as bright chrome powered downstream trailing the blue skagit floating head right along with him. He was now within sixty feet of us and beginning to show the first signs of fatigue. I used the rod to angle him over in the direction where Evan was standing. I was up to my waist in fairly fast moving water, but had good traction on the bottom. This allowed me to put enough pressure on the fish to actually begin to move him in Evan’s direction. All the fight was still not out of him and he definitely did not like the looks of Evan. These guides do not use nets, and the game is never over until the large fish is brought to hand. By pinching the spinal column and belly side of the tail, a good guide can secure the fish without the use of a net. Minutes later, Evan had secured the fish and he had given in to defeat.
My guide estimated this fish at 34 inches in length and 13 to 14 pounds. Who knows the actual size, but the fight was real. The photograph was taken without arms extended while wedging my fly rod and reel to my chest.
Evan holding the fish momentarily after he brought it to hand.
I hooked two other fish that day and landed neither. Simply hooking into a Steelhead is enough to get your heart pumping. I lost my third fish as I applied too much pressure when the fish bolted and bucked. Chalk it up to a loss in concentration. You have to bring your A game if you plan to land Steelhead. The leader broke at the knot and our only Undertaker was on its way down river with a really angry fish. A few casts later, another fish in the same run boiled on my fly. If I had been fishing for trout, the entire area would have been devoid of fish after the initial battle with the first fish. The fish boiled a second time and Evan decided to change the fly. After the change, I stepped several steps down river and casted again. The fish charged the fly and ran off downstream with the hook firmly set. That was fish number four. He was much smaller than the first three, but he threw the hook back at me and went on his way after a short time on the line. Never, take anything for granted. The fish won fifty percent of the time that day. All were well hooked; two were landed.
Summary.
We took out at Beavertail after a full day of fishing under cloudy skies. Normally, fishing is done during the morning and late evening hours with a nap in between. The lack of direct sun on the water allowed us to fish on through and take off the water about five that evening. Still, it was a long day on the water. These guides work very hard at what they do. There are few promises when stalking Steelhead. I could have easily fished just as hard and have come up empty. Evan called me “Lucky Larry”. Frankly, I was lucky. Skill plays its part when both paying attention and when landing the fish. My casting skills were not a thing of beauty, but they were much improved over last year. I give Evan much of the credit for his persistence and patience in teaching me the ropes. I will specifically ask for him by name should I fish the Deschutes next year. That is my plan.
If you ever find yourself in Maupin, Oregon, and want to try your hand at fly fishing for Steelhead, take a little time and look up Evan Unti. At thirty years old, he has found his passion. You won’t be disappointed.
I had planned to stay and fish for a while longer on the lower Deschutes. But when I got back to Maupin that evening, I got into my van and headed for home. No way I could top that day on the river with Evan and Deschutes Angler. I had not seen my wife, Sheryl, in weeks of being out West, and I missed my dogs, Dude and Lexi. Home was calling.
Four days later I was sitting out back of my home in Kansas and the dogs were retrieving in the lake. This is Dude, all grown up and ready to celebrate his first birthday later this month. When I left for the Pacific Northwest, he was still a puppy. When I returned home, Dude had become a full grown dog.
P.S. I just could not resist a half day fishing on the Green on my way home from Oregon. This nice Rainbow was taken on a dry fly on the Green River below Flaming Gorge in Eastern Utah.
About the Author:
Larry Stephenson is a professional artist and illustrator making his home in Andover, Kansas. He is best known for his whimsical watercolor paintings using juxtaposed items and situations. His interest in fly fishing and his love for the Oregon wilderness has led him to work with the Deschutes River Conservancy on a series of artworks for future use in marketing and promoting the fund raising for the conservancy.
Tight Lines!



















































